Harper's Ferry (Part 2)

Captains Log |star-date 874291|:

Hi-ya from Earth. We have encountered a simple life here in the mountains. The work is hard and rewarding. The people are crazy, and you'd have to be to walk for 8 hours a day just to eat crunchy rice and sleep between two smelly old men who snore loud enough to shake the floorboards. Our ship has landed at several docking stations where other earthlings welcome hikers to their sleeping quarters and roofs. These people are some of the nicest people we have met. They give to others in hopes that the good they do will transfer to each person they touch and the "good vibe" (as they call it in the Hippie subculture) will continue spreading and reach far beyound their doorstep. Our energy is difficult to regulate due to the weight we must carry on our backs. Therefore our bodies must pull from fat stores when the fuel tank is empty... sometimes leading to THC highs randomly at odd times of the day.

Our progress is slower than expected at the start, probably because we've been having a blast and enjoying the morning at camp and walking late into the night. So when are we going to finish this mission? At this time our arrival at Baxter State Park is set for September 1 and summitting Katahdin Sept 4th at the mark of our Seventh moon cycle and the full illumination of the moon in the night sky. What happens from now until then is not yet decided. That is the beauty of choose your own adventure hiking... one decision at a time... simple.

Reflection. Amidst an adventure chock full of surprises, challenges, joys, and desire... is it time to consider what the truck has been going on... really going on??

Beyond the play by play a beard has grown rampant, a dog has grown tired of walking, an East Coast Spring has bloomed with exuberance bringing rain, fog, and snow to the higher elevations of the Southern Appalachian Mnts swelling rivers like hassle free moonshine. The trail has ascended the highest peak East of the Mississippi, Clingman's Dome (6643ft), and landed us at the intersection of the Shenandoah River and the Potomac River. Where there was a mountain; we climbed to the top of it... sometimes for an incredible view with hills rolling for as far as the eye could see in every direction glistening in the afternoon sunshine...sometimes lost in a cloud of fog making the brim of your hat hard to see... and sometimes to crest over the rounded and rocky knol just to go right back down. It has been amazing.

So much to learn in this life, we have only scratched the surface. I say "we" because I truely believe each and every one of us is on this spaceship earth and we are all essentially the same energy ... underwater bumble bee farms ... mash potatoes and cheese ... it is all the same in the ends... sorry Jesus we can only be friends, I don't need you to save me, I will take my chances on this journey till the end... but I really like what you said about loving your neighbor... funny how we hear only what we want to hear and we disregard the rest (Paul Simon)

Safety Patrol is taking a siesta at Casa de Kababik for the next 300 miles. She has been a great companion and friend and walked the last 1000 miles with grace. She has made many friends and we will all await her return. I wrote this poem when she was on vaca with Hawk...

Amidst the fog
no birthday song
Came to the creek
and stopped to eat
First day without a dog

800 miles of goofy smiles
in cold and warm and HOT
with head held high you did not cry
when difficult to trot

You kept a guard
at camp each night
birds to ascending flight
And bumble bees had met their match
when challenged to a fight

So rest your paws
a better cause
will sleeping be to you
My trusted friend
we'll meet again
and a walkin' we will do



SS

Haper's Ferry (Part 1)

Here we are... 1017 miles, the mental half-way point of the trail... and finally out of Virginia (don't get me wrong... loved VA, a beautiful state full of very nice people) and into West Virginia/Maryland. The past 2 weeks have been full of surprises and unusual events. We've seen Bears, snakes, deer, and tourists. We've enjoyed beer, burgers, hot dogs, and cowboy stews. We've hiked, canoed, swam, hitchhiked, and bushwacked... we are entering the second half of a journey that only gets better with time... and crossing the Mason Dixon line and the land of Yankees... no more backwoods hillbilly moonshine for a while... sad face!

Departing Waynesburo took longer than expected... a gear delay held us back one day. Johnny and Scott at North Face have been incredibly helpful in getting me a pack that fits and will hold the larger load with dog food. The new pack is 70 liters and much beefier for holding 50 + lbs. The people in Waynesburo were excellent hosts who welcomed us and offered as much help as we could have asked for. We got onto the trail and entered the Shenendoah National Park, just in time for Memorial Day!

Shelters were packed from the start, and oddly placed with regards to mileage... making for short days (12 miles) or really long days (30 miles). Every day we would walk into what was called a Wayside... most of these have beer and food. Beer is sold as singles... we indulged in the adult supplies several afternoons, sometimes avoiding hiking for upwards of 5 hours just to enjoy the intoxicating effects of Bucsh Light! On Saturday Sawman and I stumbled onto an all you can eat buffet with pulled pork and fried chicken... very tastey, but not the best light fare for the long distance hiking that took place afterward. On Sunday after a few hours of beer drinking and a safety meeting with a mountain biker we decided to bushwack back to the trail by heading North, keep the sun to our left. We lost Knees in the woods for almost an hour, I saw a bear on the trail... but no signs of Knees until we started up the trail and incidentaly ran into him as he finally found the trail again. But all of the delays put us ontop of a lookout at sunset and we enjoyed a very beautiful end to the day.


Aqua Blaze plans had been floating around for a week, since we had learned that it was possible to run the Shanendoah River N to Harper's Ferry (as mentioned in the previous post). Joining SpaceShip and Safety Patrol on this adventure was SawMan, L-Train, and Snake Eyes. We rendezvoused at the Terrapin Station Hostel, but Sawman missed the turn-off and Snake Eyes and I slacked down to meet and swoop up Sawman so we could catch L-train at the grocery store and stock up on supplies for our floatilla.

Rain came pooring down as we reached our ride to Front Royal, and three soaked hikers met up with a dry dog and Mike, our driver, and headed into the staging point for our river trip. We stockpiled on burgers, beer, and other perishables that we had been unable to carry in our packs for the past months, and pushed our shopping cart possey to the China Buffet accross the parking lot. Four carts sat fully stocked as we munched down on Orange Chicken and Crab Ragoo (that's what I call it) untill our cab arrived and we pilled our food pile into a mini van and headed to the Budget Inn.

When hitchhiking the hitcher carries the understanding that the driver may and will most likely be an interesting character... a wise hitchhiker will turn down a hitch that doesn't feel right, whatever the reason may be. Sometimes you realize you've missed some obvious warning signs, but it is too late to refuse a ride, unless you want to ditch on the highway at 50 mph and take your chances. Some obvious warning signs for anyone hitching a ride or hailing a cab:

1. The cab is not marked
2. There is no meter in the cab
   
3. the driver walks with a limp, a hard limp
4. the driver talks about selling crack
5. the driver has been shot by a cop
6. the driver got away from said cop
7. the driver then removed the bullet from his own leg
8. the driver talks about doing crack
9. you think the driver did crack before picking you up

Etc. etc. Happily we reached our hotel room before the driver started doing crack while driving!

The next morning we called the canoe company, Front Royal Canoe, to arrange a ride when we got the unexpected news that we would not be able to run our trip to Harper's Ferry due to high water... sad face
Breakfast... classifieds... impatient chamber maid... phone call... change of plans... moved gear out of room in 10 minutes to get $30 late fee back... moved all of gear into FRC van... arrived at outfitter... packed dry bags and coolers... ride to put in at Lurray... loaded gear into two canoes... launched canoes... cracked a beer... safety meeting... floatilla underway!

Our first day was fantastic, got into camp at 7pm and cooked a cowboy stew of kielbasa, peppers, onions, mushrooms, and other goodies. The next morning we found a rope swing over a deep part of the river and enjoyed the joys of gravity (20 foot jump)... then around lunch time we hit the class III rapid that we had been warned about. Our boat with L-train and the beer decided not to stop at the agreed pre-rapid take-out to tiedown gear and scout out the rapid... instead we stood up and headed right into the wavy watery mess... and proceeded to take on enough water to fully sink our canoe... but we were still in it enough to keep paddling and push through the final wave and fully flip the canoe and disperse all of the contents into the brown river water.

Lexi said "C-ya" as the beer cooler floated past her and into my face, allowing me to grab it and proclaim... "It's ok.. i've got the beer!" But I had to let go of it in order to get the canoe into the upcoming eddy so we could empty the water and re-load our vessel. But not all of our gear was heading into the eddy, so I left the canoe with l-train and began retreiving our gear from the current in hopes of salvaging the important stuff... success! After a bit of hard work and lots of swimming/paddling... all gear had been collected and accounted for... and SawMan and I decided to head back up to the top of the rapid and float it on an inner tube we had found. Floating on the inner tube was near impossible, so we headed down the wave train in shambles, knocking our butts on every rock within reach of the surface... laughing... yelling... and having a damn good time.

At camp that night we found a cabin unlocked and enjoyed the matresses and power outlet free of charge! Our final day was a nice easy float, thundershowers crossed the river in front and behind us, and then finally at the last mile, directly over us... making our final stretch quite exciting! Stumbling up to the outfitter, we accept the invitation to camp down at Bone's site (dudeman who worked at outfitter) for the night.

5am the next morning, after a freight train passed by knocking earplugs out of ears and waking people 5 miles away, Snake eyes and L-train decided to pack up and try and hitch to Baltimore for Andy Days. I pack up as well and join the troop. We catch a ride (3 hikers and 1 dog) in less than 5 minutes and as we rode into front royal, lexi and I in the bed, Snake eyes pokes his head throught the cab window and informs me that they're heading to DC. Not thinking clearly I stay in the truck for the next hour until Dale drops us off at a 7/11 near Dulles Aiport... nowhere near Harper's Ferry.. a bad idea. But Andy agrees to pick us up and drop me and lex off at the ATC HQ in Harper's ferry... and we finally arrive at our resting point for the afternoon.

Mom and Dad make it into town around 5, just as the HQ was closing down, and we all head to Moonridge Cabin, where I sit writing this story on a leather couch on a beautiful cool day.

(to be continued)

Full moons...

By the numbers: 850 miles, 67 days, 4 states, 200,000 feet of elevation gained, 1 pair of hiking boots, 5 pairs of socks, 38 slices of pizza record holder, 1 johnny law encounter, 2 backpacks (and waiting on the third), 103 degrees (hottest day), 10 degrees (coldest day), 10 inches of snow April 10th, 10 inches of rain in two weeks, 3 full moons, 10 night hikes, 30 miles (longest mileage in one day), 300 pounds of food eaten, 20 pounds of weight lost, 1,500 steps per mile... countless good times!

I have 28 minutes left at the Waynesboro Public Library... and the preceding list is all I could think of in short time... maybe I'll think more when walking and come up with some more numbers! As I sit here, in one of the nicer libraries, my tent is sitting in a grass field under an Oak tree with Lexi tied to the tent pole acting as guard dog. The YMCA is across the street and they allow us to camp for free, shower for free, and use their pool and weight room. Trail Angels, as they are self-proclaimed to be and rightfully so, are everywhere and continually offer us rides to places that are beyond walking distance. My shoulder aches from arm-wrestling the other night... Dad you'd be proud of this left arm... is our bet still on?

22 minutes remain. Lexi finally threw in the proverbial towel... she started to walk very slow and was giving me the look that meant "Dude, it's been fun... but I need to rest". So I took her pack off and carried all of her food... while already having way too much food for myself... sent her pack home and slowed down a bit.. but she was really over all of it... and a section hiker (former thru-hiker) named Hawk recognized the situation and in a very kind gesture offered to take Lex off the trail for a few days. And so she's been on vaca from the trail since Wed afternoon. But I get ahead of myself.

After leaving Daleville, which is where I last posted, we have been amidst much rain and thunder, in fact every day since we left has been wet. The full moon was last Saturday night, so we naturally nite-hiked... full moon over the full moon if you get my drift! which was awsome and hopefully will continue with all future full moons! We woke up on Mother's Day camped on a side trail... OOPS! day hikers had to post-pole around our settlement until we rose, only an hour shy of mid-day... Sunday is for rest after all...

Then accross the James River Foot Bridge. A foot bridge named after William T. Foot... hmmm... and into Glasgow... a nice little town with Hamburgers and Chili fries... and beer! Country Club 6-pack only $2.69... camp... happy times with the gang (Tents, L-Train, Andy from Baltimore, Hawk, Highliner, and some other dude).

11 minutes left... Got Lexi back this afternoon from Hawk at the Outfitter here in town... also got some packages... happy dog, happy me!

From here we may be Aqua-blazing... this is when you run a river that runs parrel to the trail... it disqualifies you from the 2,000 miler patch... and all comments refering to you as a "purist"... so I embrace this aqua blazing opportunity with zeal... after all if I was anticipating a certification at the completion of this trail so that I can display my accomplishment to others... I would feel like a hypocritical moron... I don't need no silly rules... silly silly rules....

To the river!

SS

Choose Your Own Adventure

I post this from the lobby of a HOJO in Daleville, VA... as rain falls lightly outside. After leaving the library at Pearisburg many delightful hiking and camping activities have ensued. Rain, sun, and whiskey!

A flip of a coin resulted in a walk to the dreaded Walmart Super Store and as we crested the hilltop of the parking lot, my little eye spots a Virginia Alcohol Beverage Control Center (or booze store!) the first sign of booze other than beer since on the trail. I was mostly thrilled about this because of Lexi's birthday party, but that comes later. After securing purchases at the V-ABC store and Walnuts super center, pizza and a bed... then up and onto walking...

The trail walking sucked at first. It was hot, my pack was really heavy... it's always heavy leaving towns, full of food, water, and this time booze... but we got to shelter and started to enjoy the Scotch that weighed the pack down. When I woke the next AM, everyone was gone early... which was strange, but also welcome sight, walking alone is a nice change up and it makes the trail feel more remote. When I caught up with the gang (Tents, Bones, Bound, and Pheonix) they were fully engulfed in a AT seminar with a group of teachers who hiked into a shelter to meet thru-hikers and ask questions. Also met up with Andy (from Baltimore and L-Train), who I hadn't seen since Fontana Dam, good folk, and they enjoy doing odd and unusual hiking activities such as bushwacking and night hiking.

Our plan quickly becomes a mad dash for an All You Can Eat resturaunt called the Home Place... a must stop for all hikers with large appetites... only snag is... it's 60 miles away and it's got crazy backwoods VA hours of operation, and in two days it won't be serving the tasty meal choices in copious amounts for 5 more days... so with food on the mind.. we start the long 48 hour journey.

Night Hiking can be a great way to travel via foot in the woods. Scenery and vistas being different and undiscernable in the absense of the fireball in the sky, many hikers do not want to embark on this type of adventure... but to us, cool air and mystery only enhance the experience... so we walk on, amidst the dark blanket of night... with Dark Side of the Moon playing from the Speakers in my Pack (yup i have a stereo system)... we discuss alot of "safety" because it's important to be safe, especially when you can't see where you're going... at around 2am we stop the march and lay our sleeeping bags out and catch some quick ZZ's.

At about 5am, the pitter patter starts... slowly becoming a concern for a tired hiker sleeping under the stars. The sound of Andy fumbling through his pack sound the alarm in my head that it's time to make some decisions. Andy pulls his tent over his bag like a bivy sack... I set up my tent with two poles (because I can do that from a sitting position in my sleeping bag) and slide into the makeshift shelter with Lexi also happy to escape the oncoming wetness... Feeling tired mostly and half sure about the decision I made, I fall back asleep. When I wake a few hours later, I am sleeping in a river of water that has formed on my ground cloth, tent, and under the sleeping pad. Lexi is curled up in a ball at the foot of the tent slowly inching herself away from the swelling river in our shelter... first thought... "Poptarts would be tasty" so after comply with desire, the brain systems fed and warm, I finish setting up the tent, climb back inside and go back to sleep. L-train and Andy have both left, L-Train had opted for no shelter, and slept in the rain until she was shivering from cold... Andy pulled his tent off his sleeping bag, packed up and headed down the hill for the wooden shelter. I was woken up by Slowgoin as he walked by the tent at 10am, and then I begin the walk down the hill... cold, wet, and enjoying every second!

The rain didn't stop all day... in fact it rained harder than I've seen yet. Lexi and I both soaked to the bone, dripping from head to toe, laughing, smiling, running in the rain... hey it's warm and there's nothing else to do but live, and that's why we're smiling... we're alive and feel great! At camp that night, with rain downpooring, the kind of down poor that soaks your skin in less than a minute, where rain comes from below and fills all crevices with puddles... my tent was soaked (you could have filtered water from the puddle in the corner), my sleeping pad, drenched, clothing... wet and smelly, sleeping bag... wet and smelly... yup everything that I had in that pack was wet, from being in the rain, or just from getting it out in the rain and moving it to the tent... what a night of sleep! Lexi escaped to the mice infested shelter basement, and we didn't see eachother again until the sun was back in the morning... and with it of course... rain!

We I'm running out of time here on this computer... so I'll summarize that story... we didn't get to the All You Can Eat in time, I did dry out, and on Tuesday, Cinco de Mayo we celebrated Lexi's 7th Birthday with Trail Margaritas (Tequila and Gatorade) and made it to our current local, Daleville.

We depart in a few hours for the trail again... rain in the forecast for the next 5 days. Each day is full of decisions, we get to choose our own adventure... whether we choose to be lazy and not set up our tent and pay for it for 2 nights or choose to walk all night into the wee hours of the morning... it's our adventure for the choosing... free will and no worries... I recomend daydreaming and lolly gagging... clear your mind and go with the flow...

Next place for packages is:
Hold for NB AT-Thru Hiker "SpaceShip"
Rock Fish Outfitter
1461 E Main St
Waynesboro, VA 22980

SS